The original formula by maestor panadero Gregory Kupis appeared in Molineria Y Panaderia 1227-1228 Noviembre-Diciembre (ISBN: 0026900X) and to translate, this bread has a very rustic appearance due to the mixture of different flours that also confer a very strong and distinctive flavour.
Gregory bakes at (h)arina pananderia opened in 2009 by Carmen Baudin. (www.harinamadrid.com).
In the original formula the final dough is divided into 500g pieces and formed into balls placed on floured baker’s linen. This produced four 500g pieces and an additional 300g piece which I left overnight in the refrigerator and baked the next day. If anything the taste profile had improved. Here I suggest shaping into 4 balls of approximately 580g each.
This is a particularly easy bread as it mixes quickly and seems quite tolerant of some temperature and time changes.
Variations for Pan multicereales would be to use semillas de sesame (sesame seeds), pipas de girasol (sunflower seeds) and many of the ones without a masa madre (pre-ferment, starter or sourdough) add sugar, eggs and milk.
The basic mix of dark rye, wholemeal and strong bread flour is varied sometimes by the addition of spelt. I found spelt to complicate the flavour profile in a way that did detract from the simplicity of Gregory Kupis’ formula. Some formulas even leave out the whole oats (Avena) which when fermented over a long period do contribute to the overall taste and texture.
This a really great Spanish bread and the only slight variation I might suggest is to add a very small amount of ground and roasted caraway seed, say 3g. And, as I write, that version is chilling out in my refrigerator.
I had to guess at the type of starter as the formula simply calls for 445g masa madre and does not specify if it is to be masa madre natural solida or masa madre natural liquida. I am sure it would be either rye or whole wheat or in combination. I have discovered that an Einkorn starter adds a lovely background note of nuts and this is used here in combination with a whole wheat starter at 100% hydration (75g whole wheat, 75g water, 75g starter). Feel free to make the masa madre with whatever type of starter you prefer. Use a Masa madre natural solida and the dough would be too dry. Then again the hydration for my formula depending on how calculated is (a) 85.83% (b) 78.89% or (c) 72.98%. I doubt the linseeds contribute so I think this is best described at 78% hydration.
Finally the original formula calls for 10g Levadura and again it does not specify the type of yeast. I took a guess and used instant yeast and reduced the amount which is perhaps why the formula is quite tolerant of minor time and temperature variations. Something needs to get at those oats and baker’s yeast in combination with a 49% – 44 % wild yeast masa madre make this enhanced sourdough work nicely.
Suffice it to say if you want a basic formula for Pan Multicereales this is it and adapt to your own liking.
20g Whole wheat starter (100% hydration)
25g Einkorn starter (100% hydration)
100g Light rye flour (Shipton Mill Organic Light Rye Flour Type 997)
100g whole wheat flour (Shipton Mill Organic 100% Wholemeal Flour #205)
200g water @ 21 C (Sainsbury’s Basic’s Sparkling Table Water – Greenmoor Spring)
445g Masa madre/all the pre-ferment
450g white flour (Shipton Mill Canadian Organic Strong Bread flour #112) [Harina de fuerza]
225g Dark rye flour (Shipton Mill Organic Dark Rye Flour – Type 1350) [Harina integral de Centeno]
225g Whole wheat flour (Shipton Mill Organic 100% Wholemeal Flour #205) [Harina integral de trigo]
11g Cornflour (Natco Fine Corn Meal ) [Harina de maize]
100g Oats (Freefrom Pure Oats by Sainsbury’s) [Avena]
100g Linseeds (Brown Linseeds by Sainsbury’s) [Linaza]
8.33g instant yeast (Dove’s Farm Quick Yeast) [Levadura]
25g sea salt (Trapani Sale di Gucciardo Vincenzo)
750g water at about 21 C (Sainsbury’s Basic’s Sparkling Table Water – Greenmoor Spring)
Some 12 hours before you intend to mix the final dough make the pre-ferment. Add the starters to a container you can seal, I use a medium glass bowl covered with cling film. Then add all the water and mix to break up the starters before adding flours. Cover when fully incorporated.
Measure out the water for the final dough and pour some of it around the edges of the mature pre-ferment to loosen before transferring to a stand mixer bowl. Don’t be a messy baker!
I used a Bosch mum4405 compact kitchen mixer.
Add the rest of the water and then all the other ingredients to the mixer bowl. It will almost be full so measure the dry ingredients separately and then add carefully to the bowl before placing on the stand mixer.
Mix for 4 minutes at speed one, then 6 minutes at speed two and again at speed 1 for 2 more minutes. The original formula calls for 1 minute at medium speed, then mixing to the right at slow speed for three minutes before mixing to the left at rapid speed for three minutes. Sounds like a fun bit of kit that particular mixer.
Remove all the dough from the stand mixer bowl. After all it is about to expand and the bowl is almost full. The new container needs to fit into your refrigerator and to be tightly covered. The best option seems to be to transfer into a round Cambro lidded container (see: http://www.cambro.com/Round_Storage_Containers_and_Lids/)
Getting cling film over a medium sized food bowl is a bit of a pain and never quite works. This is not a wet towel job.
Place and let stand in a refrigerator at temp 4 C for 10 hours to 12 hours.
Then remove from the refrigerator and let proof at 21 C for 2 hours. Reduce the time if the room temperature is greater.
Form into tight balls and place unto a linen cloche for 25 minutes. Take your own journey, dust and cover or leave exposed and don’t dust with flour. Ideally these would get placed in a hydration chamber at 21 C for the final leg undusted.
Bake at 210 C for 45 minutes if using a Miele Moisture Plus Oven with two bursts of steam at start and again at 10 minutes. Or adjust for your own method as the original formula calls for 230 C with 4 seconds of vapour from a commercial oven.
I love this bread.